Can you talk us through your journey after departing Lanvin back in 2015 as its artistic director for more than a decade? What made you take this decision?
I went back to the past, asking questions about the present. And yet, I went forward imagining the future. What’s Next? What’s next in fashion and what’s next for me. What would make me happy.
I watched the world around me reach a turning point. Things changed.There were many days of boredom, but I realized that boredom is maybe the best ingredient for creativity. And some days, I found myself walking in the rain, not knowing if I had tears on my face or if it was just the rain.
I travelled the world, I met many investors that only wanted to see business plans and price tags. I went to factories, I met engineers, and more and more people. After so many years of deadlines, I had the luxury to meet myself again and to think on a larger scale. I felt liberated to create my own new dreams. I went to Palo Alto because I was fascinated with the new technology. This virtual, digital world inspired me to try to find asynergy between tradition and newness.
How did the idea of launching AZ FACTORY come about?
Our industry is on a speed-dial, chasing after What’s NEW, What’s NEXT… We had to change. We had to start a new dialogue to re-imagine the tomorrow. I never stopped looking at the people around me. Fashion is my metier and my passion and my life. I just want to do it now differently and do it my way.
It began when I started to re-imagine the new “Black Dress”; the most essential and iconic piece of every women’s wardrobe. Our first product story from AZFactory, the MyBody story, was the starting point. My challenge was how to“modernize” it with a new purpose for TODAY. I didn’t want a chic little“black dress” in evening fabrics. Many women I know are extremely sensitive with their fluctuating weights, always searching for solutions to look their best. I wanted to create a new jersey fabric that hugs a woman, makes her feel supported, makes her feel her best in her body. This is where it all began.
Your vision for the launch of AZ FACTORY is far from the traditional debut launches and fashion shows. Can you further elaborate on this new approach?
This is always the way I wanted to present the brand. Educational entertainment with a digital show that didn’t stay superficial on the clothes. I wanted to SHOW FASHION – explain the techniques, go into detail on the process, explain why, when, where and how all these pieces came together. I wanted to make people smile, to laugh, to understand, maybe to feel a little emotion.
Your concept is celebrating body positivity and targeting a whole new audience of women. Can you tell us more?
Women were at the heart of it from day one, the first minute. After years of observation, I understand women better! I saw and experienced their needs. And I am still learning! My challenge is to always be attentive and support women in this world. I want to create solutions for women.
At the same time, living in beauty has been and always be very important tome. It’s not just about solutions - I also want to elevate it. I want to make solutions that project confidence, comfort, AND beauty. I had a dream to make a dress, just a simple dress, that can hug a woman. A dress that can also hold you when you need it.
Your concept also taps into the athleisure, what made you explore thisnew-to-Alber category?
It’s a reflection of the times. It’s what people want today. We want to be comfortable, but we want to be fabulous too. We want to save time, we want to get ready fast. This is what it means to design with solutions in mind.
The sneakers which you have introduced in your debut collection are likenothing we’ve seen before, how did you come up with this design?
Everyone loves sneakers – they are comfortable, they are fun, they are easy. But I still saw my friends holding on to their pumps – saying they missed the pointy heel. There is something that makes women feel good –it’s about an elongated silhouette. For AZ Factory, it’s not about day to evening - it’s about two in one. The comfort of sneakers with the point of pumps to create a comfortable shoe with a sensual feeling. The marketing team called it the Pointy Sneaks. A sneaker you can run with, but you can dance as well.
Are you planning to expand your AZ FACTORY categories in the future? If yes, what will you include?
Yes! But we need time to grow gradually and organically.
Will AZ FACTORY follow the same fashion cycle as majority of big fashion houses where 2-4collections are introduced per year?
No! At AZ Factory, we take the time we need for each story. When we are satisfied, we will sell it. If it works well, we will make more. We will start slowly though, we want to avoid the waste.
What aspects of AZFactory most excite you?
The people! The human side of fashion.
How do you view the future of fashion?
Fashion can’t be reinvented from one day to another. What I have learned and what I really believe is that fashion needs to embrace the notion of time – to give more time – this will be the change. This is when things will happen.
How has the pandemic affected your work?
Designers, like all creative people, are just like antennas – we capture vibes, moments, feelings – so it was hard to digest. I kept asking myself: what is fashion’s place in a time like this? Is it not important at all? Or is it very, very important?
I think on a dark day, when we wear a yellow sweatshirt, it can give us energy and hope. So yes, I think fashion is important. Maybe now more than ever.
What is the proudest moment of your career so far?
Every day is a new adventure!
There is so much uncertainty these days, what do you recommend to do in order to stay positive?
This past year was challenging. Very challenging. Most of the time stressful, sometimes sad, and often lonely. But now I am full of hope. I believe and think the pandemic for me is a time of detox. A time to see what doesn’t work. It’s a time when innovation, newness and change can accelerate.
Describe a typical day in the life of Alber Elbaz.
We are a small team, so we spend most days finding solutions for everyone and everything. I feel like the mother of a big family! Designing in the studio with the design team, thinking of new ideas for our communication, meetings with marketing, we do everything!
What's on your wishlist of travel destinations?
Any safe travel would be a dream!The wait is finally over! Fashion designer Alber Elbaz is making a comeback with the launch of his much-anticipated new label AZ FACTORY. Renowned for his sense of humor and his passion for bright and enriching colors, Alber Elbaz was formerly the creative director of Lanvin in Paris from 2001 until 2015, after serving stints at a number of other fashion houses including Guy Laroche and Yves Saint Laurent.