standard |'stæn.dəd| >n. a recognized or established level of quality, style, or expectation within a particular area,
which serves as a reference for comparison, imitation, or adherence.
The Winter 25 collection is unveiled in a symmetrical backstage maze, with multiple exits and entrances—a metaphor for the creative process. Lines are blurred, seating plans are inverted—everyone is given a front-row seat.
This collection is based on a study of standard dress codes, and what it takes to twist standard fits and garments into a fashion context. Focused on a sociological observation of the wardrobe underpinned by dressmaking principles and a pursuit of the golden ratio—an exercise in rigour, a challenge, a defining and a rethinking of standards.
Businesswear looks open with four standard-fit two-piece suits: the same black suit worn by different individuals embodies two distinctive attitudes: a double standard; a hand-wrinkled navy business suit; and an intricate grey “moth-eaten” pinstripe suit. A standard-fit jacket paired with a maxi skirt challenges fixed definitions of a suit. Archetypal office commuters emerge: wearing a cotton piqué polo, an ultra-light puffer, and a ‘wetsuit ’leather jacket, tied together by an anatomic approach that applies dressmaking principles to ostensibly “banal” garments.
Daywear silhouettes include streamlined single-garment looks: standard-fit maxi or three-quarter-length coats— offset with godets, and a maxi trench and fake-fur coat.
A double-breasted beige cashmere coat is finished with broken buttons, and a double-faced cream cashmere coat has an integrated scarf collar. A back-to-front quarter-zip reveals a zippered décolletage reminiscent of Balenciaga’s creations for Bunny Mellon. Integrated push-up and corseted constructions weave a dressmaking sensibility into standard garments: hooded nylon puffers that precisely align with curved waistbands, a poplin shirt, and a “Victorian” biker-sleeved leather jacket and molleton hoodie.
Standard garments are inverted and twisted while preserving their authenticity: A caban and maxi coat incorporate a cocoon volume, a navy cardigan is turned floor-length and Medici-collared. A shearling parka takes on the House’s 1951 Semi-Fitted line. A molleton maxi hoodie has the sweeping volume of Balenciaga’s 1967 wedding dress, and a standard-fit T-shirt is shown intact or with chopped off sleeves. Resin-treated denim is crushed to be permanently wrinkled.
Emphasizing the adaptability of an anatomic approach, archetypal outerwear is made in Demna’s fit: a Harrington, a bomber, a molleton-lined leather blouson, and a puffer, followed by equestrian workwear ensembles that finish with a suede Balenciaga I PUMA bathrobe lined in brushed reverse molleton.
Supermini silhouettes comprising sweater dresses are cinched with a giant safety pin or belt; supermini skirts are made of knotted standard garments: polos, button-up shirts, and tracksuit jackets.
A hand-stitched dry molleton “Luxury” hoodie, lined in superfine cashmere, is worn with matching hand-stitched sweatpants. Marché “plastic bag” shoppers are made in crushed Dyneema®—a technical textile with a tensile strength comparable to Kevlar®.
Balenciaga I PUMA technical sportswear—the modern incarnation of streetwear—evokes a minimal streamlined sensibility; a modern elegance.
‘Swimdresses’ in water-sport spandex offer single-garment ensembles alongside monumental couture-inspired opera coats in fake fur and black nylon puffer.
Business Bags reinvent briefcases with convertible handles. Handsfree bags and clutches are designed for handsfree device use. Purse pouches are crafted in lambskin, jewelry bag suede, or leather-lined dustbag cotton.
Balenciaga I PUMA Speedcat Ultrasoft with a destroyed Formstrip omit all structural elements. Excavator Riding boots and chaps combine waders with equestrian footwear. Archetypal “formal” footwear is distorted in Monsieur derbies, booties, and monkstraps, alongside Portofino Mocassins and a Hyperflat Rim Derby.
Alpinestars gloves rework the SMX-2 and Morph Gloves with piercings, spikes, and distressed treatments, complemented by a co-branded SuperTech R10 Helmet. Horoscope necklaces match the wearer’s sign. Faceless Geneva watch bracelets capture the gesture of a watch without the burden of time, mirroring Frame rings and earrings that are left unset. Venice Beach Mask eyewear with modular arms make ski goggles adaptable, offering versatile wearing options.
