As the House returns to the Paris Fashion Week calendar, “LA CROISIÈRE” puts forth a vision of JACQUEMUS as though it has existed since the 1950s, revisiting imagined codes from the past through the lens of today.
In those earliest years, a JACQUEMUS voyage from Paris to America, a designer crossing the Atlantic to introduce his couture creationsto new clients. Drawn to the post-war optimism and the embrace of French fashion, to the outward elegance of Hollywood films, torising stars such as Marilyn Monroe, to a popular culture that would have appeared exotic from afar.
Transcribing these influences in a current context and as the first-ever fashion show to be filmed entirely on Apple iPhones. The collection is characterised by mid-century silhouettes revived as dressed-up constructions with an everyday ease. Geometries are softened – contoured hourglasses dresses in crisp cotton poplin, shapely jackets with refined Ovalo curves, dropped waists giving way to fluted tulle skirts, moulded busts protruding with smooth, sculptural dimensions. Gauzy white organza, figure-skimming knits, stiff indigo denim, and animal stripe or banana-patterned are chic and sleek in statement. Flocked polka dots and hand-painted stripes introduce arty treatments. Men’s looks are clean-cut, polished and sporty: double-breasted jackets, twisted bowling shirts and trimwaist pants that trace an athletic body. A slim windbreaker is assembled in paper-thin leather while suede jackets worn over polo shorts nod to archetypal American sportswear.
The convergence of traditional and contemporary artisanal techniques are reflected in hand-painted organza, fibrous raffia tightly embroidered as a textile, and ostrich feathers embroidered into swishy volumes by Lemarié. The palette is high contrast and photographic in ecru and black with accents of red, orange, cactus green and soft banana yellow, now a JACQUEMUS signature.
Accessories such as tulle tennis shoes or “Le Calino” in satin extend the ensemble, while a cabas tote in basketball-inspired orange grainy leather, banana pointy woven kitten heels and “Le Turismo” in faux ostrich lean more whimsical. Essentials become escapist as bags are filled with trompe l’oeil croc-stamped milk cartons, an umbrella, a box of frites and more bananas, all rendered in leather. The show will also debut a first look of the latest “JACQUEMUS + Nike” collaboration, a reimagination of the Nike Moon Shoe, the first trainer designed with the Waffle sole and released in 1972.
Presented within the wood-panelled rooms of the apartment conceived by Auguste Perret, the illustrious architect responsible for conceiving Art Deco buildings in streamlined concrete, the show features seating from the period, as 2025 marks the centenary of the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, which gave birth to the movement.
the brand will ALSO unveil an innovative approach to capturing live fashion shows utilizing the professional camera system on iPhone 16 Pro Max.
Exclusively captured on iPhone, THE LIVE VIDEO will be rendered in cinematic slow motion using 4K120 fps Dolby Vision recording, complemented by runway photographs and close-ups achieved through the 5x Telephoto camera. A specialized installation at the venue will seamlessly integrate iPhone into the scenography, providing guests with an interactive experience.
In this way, “LA CROISIÈRE” merges past and present, resulting in an intimate depiction of enduring French style that sees beyond the horizon. For while JACQUEMUS has come a long way over 15 years, this is a brief history relative to the oldest French Houses. Each collection thus provides an occasion to reaffirm the brand’s singular identity, enriching a heritage that is being written in real time.
