‘Space is malleable, it’s a material, it’s not just an empty vacuum. And I suppose for me, sculpture, whatever sculpture is, I think it isn’t just the object it thinks it’s a sentient physicality of something replaces us with with own physicality’
ROKSANDA’S Autumn Winter 2025 collection draws upon the bold and visionary work of renowned British artist Phyllida Barlow, whose pioneering approach to materiality, form and sculpture deeply resonates with many of the ROKSANDA’S own brand language. By repurposing discarded items, Phyllida explored fragility, impermanence, and physicality, creating work that feels in constant motion and transformation, and reconsidering the value of the overlooked.
A poignant tribute to the artist will be part of the experience - Phyllida’s voice will accompany the end of the presentation, as she reflects in her final public interview, recorded just days before her passing. This deeply moving moment not only honours her enduring legacy but also enhances the storytelling of the collection, underscoring its themes of creativity, texture, and emotional connection. Prints are born from a fusion of techniques: scanning objects like leftover plastic materials, mirrored surfaces, and cardboard, overlaid with bold painted strokes, evoking Phyllida’s own use of fabrications such as cardboard, tape and paint. Female nude entwined with a swan, printed onto panels of silk dupion as an expressive ‘patch’ that seamlessly blends visual art and high fashion.
Texture, colour and tactile experimentation take centre stage, featuring unconventional fabrics and colour: fringe-spiked raffia, fil coupé tapestry, oversized sequins adorning full garments, underpinnings, and trims. Signature dresses reveal their inner construction, while sharp, oversized tailoring is complemented by elegant organza panels that introduce a refined, feminine softness - a visual testament to the commitment to creativity and craft, these pieces serve as a foundation for the collection, embodying both experimentation and craftsmanship.
Phyllida celebration of colour, delving into what lies beneath its surface, controlling what one sees first is woven through key looks of the show - the introduction of a series
of architectonic constructional garments which add a unique tactile dimension to the runway. Constructed from negative spaces around the pattern pieces, they blur the lines between sculpture and garments.
Returning to SpaceHouse, designed by architect Richard Seifert, this brutalist and minimal backdrop resonates with Roksanda’s original introduction to artist work and spaces which Phyllida’s monumental sculptures were inhabiting.
This season, ROKSANDA has joined forces with colour expertDylon. With colour playing an important part in both brands’ languages, Dylon has added an extra layer to an already existing love of bold and striking colour. The collaboration presents three runway looks made from upcycled fabrics. Materials and trim, all reused from previous collections, were renewed and recreated using Dylon’s expertise.
