Meet Sabina Belli, The CEO of Milanese jewelry company Pomellato, who has recently launched its collection named La Gioia, meaning “joy” in Italian. The one-of-a-kind pieces took the brand’s exceptional DNA to new heights with a collection that resonates with women of today.

Sabina Belli speaks 3oud.com about Pomellato’s newly launched second high jewellery collection, the effects of the pandemic on the jewelry business, and some of the Italian firm's best-loved jewels.

Could you tell us where the inspiration and the idea of creating LA GIOIA came from and how it has developed?

Pomellato's launch into High Jewelry was the product of exceptional circumstances, it was an opportunity that we were able to pursue, and was the result of the natural evolution of the Maison over recent years. The past few years, Pomellato’s range has evolved around the idea of “upscaling” existing lines by offering increasingly more elaborate pieces. This was in response to customer demand, which showed us that they were ready to follow the Maison into larger, more sophisticated pieces, particularly those incorporating diamonds and rare gems. When the pandemic slowed down our production facilities in 2020, we decided to use the time and our exceptional workforce—110 master goldsmiths in the heart of Milan—to explore new possibilities. That was how our first High Jewelry collection was created. The guiding principle was to adopt the codes and the strong aesthetic features of the Maison while making them even more precious and desirable through the use of goldsmithing and stones. Despite the unprecedented health situation, which led to many sales outlets being closed, the success far exceeded our expectations; many of these exceptional pieces were even sold remotely!

LA GIOIA is divided into two chapters, can you tell us more about each chapter?

The pieces unveiled last July are not a new collection, but rather the second chapter of La Gioia. They are the product of two creative approaches. On the one hand, there are pieces that echo one of Pomellato's great specialties, chains and chain bracelets, which are types of jewelry that have little been used in High Jewelry until now. On the other, there are jewels created from our heritage jewelry pieces, which have been reinvented, taken apart, and re-imagined in a different form. This particularly bold creative choice echoes the sustainable development strategy of both our Maison and of Kering. Emphasizing the timeless nature of luxury, this approach, which has become popular in fashion, is a first in the history of 21st-century jewelry. Never before has a Maison dared to integrate its heritage jewelry into a contemporary collection! Once again, Pomellato is staying true to its values, shaking up the codes and breathing new life into the classic world of High Jewelry.

What differentiates LA GIOIA from other Pomellato’s lines of jewelry?

As a High Jewelry collection, La Gioia is conceived around one-of-a-kind pieces and is characterized by unlimited freedom in terms of creativity. At the same time, we maintain in all our Collections a creative balance between our Milanese design, goldsmith expertise and colorful gems cut in very special ways. Pomellato has always embraced innovation in particular when it comes to stone cutting and setting, we were the first to cut stones upside down, to introduce facet materials with cabochon shapes, to set gems in irregular pavé. Last but not least, all our jewels are hand-made in Milano, investing in our goldsmithing expertise.‍

The collection highlights the brand’s commitment to sustainability, can you tell us more about this approach? Do you strive to become known as a sustainable jewelry brand?

For Pomellato, Sustainability is an ethical obligation. Our Planet Earth deserves care and respect and Pomellato cares about the world in which we live and feels responsible to behave in an ethical way. There is no future without Sustainability.In 2018, Pomellato was the first brand to purchase 100% responsible gold while our diamonds are sourced from Responsible Jewellery Council members, thereby guaranteeing full supply-chain transparency.

We strive to create unconventional and colorful jewelry produced in ways that respect the work of men and women and safeguards craftsmanship while using precious and innovative materials sourced sustainably. For example, the Nuvola collection is made with Fairmined gold, traceable diamonds and traceable ruby from Greenland.

You always mention that supporting women is something significant to you as a person and to the brand, can you further elaborate on that?

Women are so important for us, both as customers and as employees (more than 70% of the company employees are women). We have created at Pomellato a community of women ambassadors who are successful, accomplished at work, strong, powerful and love to wear our jewels in their contemporary and stylish way. They are real women with something real to say. They speak to other women and inspire them.I want women to discover the secrets, the passion and the work of love that are behind each Pomellato jewel, starting with the high quality of craftsmanship and the savoir-faire of our artisans as well as the creative drive that is the soul of Pomellato.

This reflects also the attitude of the women who choose our brand: women who are generous, confident, women who love and appreciate life and beauty.

You were appointed CEO of the company in 2015, and was one of the few female CEOs running the business, what were the challenges you faced and what advice do you have for other female entrepreneurs?

Being among only the 5% of female CEO’s in the world, I felt the responsibility to spread a message that could empower other women, by encouraging and supporting them, this is the reason why I launched the Pomellato For Women campaign in 2017. I wanted to create a community of women of all ages and backgrounds to inspire each other. And Pomellato For Women is exactly this, a communication platform that unites and gives voice to a community of like-minded women from different walks of life, meant to both inspire others and highlight the importance of female leadership and inclusivity. We want to celebrate the diversities and the authenticity of womanhood in all its richness.

How has the pandemic affected the process of the business and what helped you to manage the stress and challenges of this crisis?

‍The past two years have been difficult times indeed at a global scale. But there is now optimism and positivity. The world of luxury has been very supportive and cohesive, creative, ready to change and adjust to new modalities in the way we worked and in the way we met our customers’ expectations and in this context, technology was key for sure, a tool that has helped nurturing the relationships with our clients in new ways. Consumers are increasingly digital savvy and well informed, more inclined than ever to buy jewelry online even for higher tickets.

What does the future hold for Pomellato?

I would say the most exciting challenge ahead is, on one side, to strengthen Pomellato’s unique positioning as the leading Italian fashion fine jeweler, the new ethical in precious. And on the other side is to amplify a channel of awareness and to talk about women’s issues through women’s voices so that we can all inspire each other and help achieve our dreams.

What is your all-time most-loved jewels and why?

My collection of Nudo rings is for sure a favourite: they are stackable, I can play with their incredible color palette and they are the perfect ‘night & day’ jewel!

Nudo was launched in 2001 and it was the perfect ironic answer to the solitaire ring, the first to use a central colored gemstone totally ‘naked’ in its splendor (Nudo in Italian means naked), a very essential design that has become truly iconic.

Finally, if you were a precious stone which one would you be? And why?

I love all colourful gems.

Perhaps I’d pick the aquamarine, it is a variety of beryl, same family as emeralds. It is becoming quite rare. We have recently produced a limited edition of Nudo rings with aquamarines to celebrate the collection’s 20 anniversary. I love the soothing light blue hues of aquamarines, they remind me of the beauty and immensity of the sky and the seas.